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Plastidipping Questions on how Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Arcturus 

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 03:44 PM

So i 'm planning on redoing the paint job on my new goblin iron/nature sword as it flaked off almost entirely last game (damn you cold weather/long curing times!) and i want to do it right this time. Therefore, as per Dave's advice, i want to put a black plastidip base layer on the sword, THEN paint over then and seal it w/ through the roof. The sword is an epicarmoury Dark Elven Longsword for reference; your basic foam latex weapon.

So my questions are:

1) Do you have to put a spray adhesive on underneath the plastidip layer? I understand that plastidip will happily peel off with enough abuse and i'd rather not have to go through painting this a third time.

2) If so, what kind of adhesive is best? general purpose or a more specialized kind?

3) How many coats of plastidip is appropriate? I've never done it before so i'm unsure.

4) how long should i let the plastidip cure for before i start painting it?

5) Is acrylic paint good enough to use in this case? I very much want to avoid cracking.

6) How many coats of through the roof do you guys use to seal your weapons?
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#2 User is offline   Danerec 

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 05:01 PM

I'm going to forward you to the facebook group associated with this as they have a lot of helpful FAQs and guides, visual aids, and overall good at answering questions posted (as long as you use the search bar first).

https://www.facebook...oups/plastidip/

but in order, here's my experience:

1)Yes, adhesive will help, otherwise it can peel off.

2) People use 3M spray adhesive for ease of application, but some people have said they use DAP. Since you're doing this over a sword that is already complete either should work, if you're making a sword from scratch you have to be careful.

3)If you're using the paint on 'Dip, 2 coats should be fine, 4 max. Also, thin that. See the group linked above because I use the spray stuff. The spray stuff goes on thinner (but is harder to use in the cold...seriously, don't do it below 50 degrees, you'll have to brush it flat as it comes out clumpy) so I'd do at least 4 coats. If you were doing a homemade sword, do more layers in stress points to add some support, but know that PD does NOT hide blemishes (cracks between foam, etc).

4)It dries pretty quick in a warm setting, I'd give it a day though to be safe. I've seen some people say they lightly sanded it before painting, I personally haven't.

5) I've used walmart acrylic paint, most will work fine. I have a scramasax I made (not game safe padding-wise) that has held up well with acrylic paint over PD and no sealer to speak of, so...

6) I believe people do 2 coats but I have yet to do this step.



PC Michael Mordison & Nahkei Govegein
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#3 User is offline   Arcturus 

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 06:50 PM

Thanks! this information will help tremendously
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